May 3, 2012

My DIY Solange Inspired Mini Skirt...

I posted this pic of Solange Knowles a few days ago wearing a fab outfit (white blouse, printed jacket and black and gold mini skirt) I didn't realize that I had enough leftover fabric to copy this look until later (my leftover fabric was from my inspired by Camilla Ferro New Orleans Saints dress)

Once I knew I had enough leftover fabric to fit around my hips it was a go. I drafted a pattern for the sequined portion and for a knit lining (the sequin is a bit see through). For the sequined portion, I measured the circumference of my hips, then added a little more room (for my comfort) plus a half inch seam allowance on all sides.
This is how the pattern looked for the sequin portion of the mini skirt (above). I cut (2) for the front, one in black, one in gold and (2) for the back with a half inch seam allowance on all sides. I combined the black and gold panels, edge to edge, with the black on top and the gold on bottom. I measured 7.5 inches top to bottom and 20 inches side seam to side seam. I could have given myself a smidge more room on the top to bottom measurements for comfort, but it still fits and doesn't ride up when walking or sitting. 
This pattern would be the main skirt pattern if I didn't have the (see through) sequined overlay. But since I was using this portion as a lining, side seam to side seam was the same as the sequined portion (20 inches) and top to bottom I doubled minus 1 inch which came to 13 inches. Now this is where it gets a little tricky. Being that I'm not an "everyday" sewer, but more of a "sporadic, renegade, shortcut" sewer, sometimes, even I have to take a moment to figure out what in the world I'm doing. So you are welcome to follow along as I attempt to explain what I did... 
Once I had (2) black and gold panels sewn together (one for the front and one for the back) it was time to sew the (2) panels to the (2) linings. Note: At this point, aside from combining the black and gold mini skirt panels, everything is still separate. I proceeded to sew the lining(s) to the bottom of the gold end of the mini skirt right side to right side. I repeated this step for the back. Then, with the right side seams together, I sewed the front and back, sequined portion and lining along both side seams using a half inch seam allowance, then flipped the lining inside of the sequined panels (see above). Cutting the lining portion shorter (in length) than the outer sequined portion of the skirt will allow some of the (gold) sequined portion to fold under hiding the lining. From there, I basted the waistline together, measure some quarter inch elastic just above my hips (where the top of the skirt falls) I don't do my waist/hip measurements then take off 1 or 2 inches when working with elastic. Yeah, don't do that. Take the elastic, wrap it around your waist/hips and stretch it/let it out until it feels comfortable for YOU. Then cut it at that point. That's what I do anyway. So once I did that, I proceeded to sew the elastic directly to the inside top/waist of the mini skirt just above my baste stitch. I could have done a casing for the elastic, but see above where I say, I'm a renegade, shortcut sewer. So finally, once that was done, I folded the elastic over, stretched it and sewed the elastic closed. Doing it this way won't work on all fabrics, but because I was working with black thread and black fabric, it was fine. Just use your judgement. I'm pleased with the outcome of it! Check another pic of my results below: 

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